Installing lavatory or basin is not too difficult a job. If the entire installation is now, you can choose whatever size or style you prefer. On the other hand, if you are replacing an old basin, you may find it easier to select a new one similar in size and style to the old one.
Lavatories fall into three general classes: wall-hung lavatories, with or without legs, with or without a bracket mounting; pedestal lavatories; and cabinet lavatories. The wallhung lavatory without legs or bracket is the most popular. Inexpensive, taking up little space, it is durable and not too difficult to mount. Lavatories with legs or bracket are more secure, to a certain extent easier to mount, but usually more expensive.
The pedestal lavatory is available in larger sizes than the wall-hung types. It is suited to large bathrooms and tends to dominate small ones. Its greatest disadvantage is that it takes up useful floor space and creates cleaning problems for the housewife. The cabinet lavatory is not too common. Its most desirable feature is the extra storage space afforded by its cabinet.
Except for the initial work of setting the lavatories in place there are few differences in the way they are installed.
The wall-hung lavatory usually measures from 18" to 26" in width and from 14" to 21" from front to rear. Each type of wall-hung lavatory is mounted in basically the same manner, either the lavatory or bracket being attached to a board set in the wall studs.
Having determined the height of your lavatory, usually 31" to 36" from floor to rim, locate precisely the area on the wall which the back of the lavatory will cover. Remove the lath and plaster from the area. Normally you will uncover two studs. If you do not, it is necessary to remove enough of the wall to uncover two studs. Notch the studs so that a board approximately the same size as the back of the lavatory can be attached flush with the plaster. Screw the board to the studs securely.
Working with a level, attach to the board either the hanger or bracket furnished by the manufacturer. Make sure that you center the lavatory over the waste piping in the wall. If your lavatory bracket is supported, have it in place before tightening bolts.
Pedestal and cabinet lavatories
The pedestal lavatory is secured to the floor by one of three means: it can be bolted to the floor, cemented to the floor, or held in place by drainage piping which goes through the floor instead of the wall. The cabinet lavatory can be held in place by any one of the means conventionally used for cabinets resting on the floor.
To install it, first apply putty to the underside of the chain-stay flange and insert the threaded end into the proper opening. Tighten the lock nut from below. Next grease the lower face of the strainer plug flange. Cover it with putty and insert it into the outlet. Working from the bottom of the basin, slide a basin or mack washer over the strainer thread and push it tight against the outlet. The beveled part of the washer should go against the basin.
Screw the tail piece to the strainer. Use a square wrench over the hexagonal nuts to make the connection as tight as possible. A plug wrench in the strainer will prevent it from turning. To complete the job, wipe any excess putty from the strainer and chain stay.
There are many kinds of pop-up waste. If your basin has an opening for one and you prefer it to a chain and plug, you will find it easy to install. A deck faucet and pop-up waste combination is quite a satisfactory. The method of installing a pop-up waste is basically the same as that for a chain and plug installation. Since the variations depend on the kind of pop-up waste you buy, you will have to rely on the manufacturer for specific instructions.
You can fit your lavatory with either separate faucets or a deck faucet, which will mix the hot and cold water. The first is more common but the second more desirable. The deck faucet requires the openings in the basin to be close together. They are, however installed in much the same way. Although the method described is for separate faucets, it applies to the deck faucet as well.
To install a faucet, apply putty and grease to the lower side of the flange on the faucet. Insert the shank or extended lip through the opening.
Rosettes (special thimbles or washers) are usually furnished with the faucets. (A simple corrugated washer may also be used.) Slide one rosette, corrugated side upward, over the shank and flush against the lower side of the lavatory. Screw a lock nut over the shank. It should be tight enough to stop the faucet from turning when the water is turned on or off. Slide the loose-head coupling over the tail piece and screw the coupling to the faucet.
You can connect the faucets to the water supply with either threaded or slip-joint supply piping. To make a threaded connection, remove the temporary nipple in the 1/2" T. Screw a 1/2" nipple into the T. The nipple should extend through the wall to within 1/2" of the center line of the faucet. Then attach a 1/2" elbow to the nipple. It should face upward, and be directly in line with the shank of the faucet.
Measure the distance from the tail piece on shank of the faucet to the elbow. Subtract 1/2" to compensate for the reducing coupling. This will give you the length of the 1/2" nipple. Screw the 1/2" nipple in the 1/4"x 1/2" reducing coupling. Then screw the tail piece into the reducing coupling. The loose-head coupling should be over the tail piece and in position to receive the faucet.
Screw the assembly into the elbow. When this has been tightened, insert the collar of the tail piece into the faucet, and tighten the loose-head coupling. Test the installation by turning on the water.
A slip-joiny supply connection omits the tail piece that in the threaded connection and furnished with most faucets. The slipjoint connection is screwed into either an elbow or a coupling run to within 6" of the bottom of the faucet.
To prepare the connection, place over the slip-joint connection in the order given: the loose-head coupling or slip-joint nut; a metal washer; a rubber washer. The supply connection pipe should be long enough to extend 3/4" into the shank of the faucet after it is screwed into the elbow or coupling. Screw the supply connection pipe into the elbow or coupling and slip the other end into M the faucet. Screw the slip-joint nut tightly to the shank of the faucet.
The basin trap
Install a 11/2" nipple in the T-Y connection in the wall. The nipple should extend 1/2" beyond the wall. The trap itself has two parts: the house or inlet side and the sewer or outlet side. Remove the loose-head coupling or slip-joint nut from the inlet side of the trap. Slip them over the tail piece on your waste outlet. If your trap is a two-part trap, separate the two parts at the union on the upleg of the trap. Slide the inlet part of the trap over the tail piece. Connect, but do not tighten, the slip-joint nut to the inlet part of the trap.
Take the outlet side of the trap and slip over it the wall flange, the slipjoint nut, the metal washer, and the rubber washer. Slide the outlet side on the trap about 3/4" into the 1 1/2" le. Screw the slip-joint nut to the nipple. If you have a two-part trap, reassemble the upleg part of the trap. Tighten all couplings. Test the trap by running water into the basin.